Mills Article

MILLS ON THE CALAPOOIA

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Introduction
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This article is reprinted from the March, 1999, issue of the Linn County Historical Society's monthly newsletter. All text and photgraphs were supplied by the Linn County Historical Society. This article is reprinted with permission, and even the enthusiastic encouragement, of the Society. To find out more about the Society, please contact:

Linn County Historical Society
c/o 1132 30th Place SW
Albany, OR 97321

or e-mail society President Glenn Harrison at: harrison@cmug.com

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Millstones
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Concerning the settlement along the Calapooia, Floyd Mullen commented, ". . . There was a need for some kind of grinding equipment. Flat stones, better known as millstones, were quarried from granite rock near Brownsville. These stones became the first burrs for grist mills.

"Within a few years, steamboats on the Willamette River were able to bring in better millstones which had been quarried in France, and reshipped from New York around Cape Horn to Portland. With better milling equipment available the grinding of wheat became a business." {The Land of Linn, p 217} [Future references are shortened to Linn.]

". . . Richard Finley built the first grist mill in Linn County at Crawfordsville in 1847. It was also the first mill South of Oregon City. [This assertion is frequently made, although there were a few other mills.] Grinding stones, or burrs, for this mill were quarried south of Brownsville. The establishment of grist and flour mills continued until all areas of the county within easy traveling distance by horse and wagon were served with milling facilities. Some of the mills continued for years upon a commercial basis. Some were small to serve a community, others were large to mill wheat for export. {Linn, p 218} ["These stones and those of other early mills in the area were probably cut by Jarvis Briggs, a stonecutter from Massachusetts, who had come to the Oregon Territory with his wife and two young children in 1846 or 47" {"Mining on the Calapooia", p 4-5}

"According to a 1939 newspaper article by Ben Maxwell, the first millstone was quarried from rock between Lebanon and Brownsville. Iron was expensive, so Finley used as little as possible. Wheels, elevator cups and cogs were made from oak." {Linn County Historical Museum in Brownsville, Finley file}

". . . Another quarry, from which specialized rock was taken, was that of the Green Peter deposit up Quartzville way [east of Sweet Home]. From the granite-like rocks, often referred to as bull or massive quartz, early millmen obtained burrs for mid-Willamette Valley flour mills. These massive stones were sledded down Green Peter Mountain from an elevation of 4,300 feet. The date of this quarry is not exactly known, but from evidence of scar marks on trees the years perhaps were in the 1870's." {Linn, p 256}

"In 1853 Finley built a larger mill just east of the first mill. Maxwell found a receipt in the Finley papers dated December 17, 1853, which refers to miIIstones purchased from George Abemethy, who operated a store at Oregon City. These burrs were quarried in France, and were shipped around Cape Horn to San Francisco." {Linn County Historical Museum in Brownsville, Finley file} [From 1845-1849, George AbernetIy was Oregon's only governor under the revised Provisional Government. Thanks to Bessie (Templeton) Leonard of Brownsville and others for writing for historical information that was included in the museum files.]

"John McKercher replaced the huge stone burrs with smaller ones soon after he took over, and later installed roller equipment.

"Vernon Farley discovered an old millstone buried at the edge of the river where the [Finley] mill once stood. The stone was made up of eight chunks of quartz fitted around a doughnut-shaped center piece. All nine stones were held together in a great wheel by a metal rim. . . "It is certain that the millstone found by Mr. Farley is from one of the mills, but It couId not be the original one from the Lebanon area because that stone was said to be of granite, and the stone in question is said to be of quartz." {Linn County Historical Museum, Finley File} "Mr. (Wayne) Braden (son-in-law ofJohn McKercher) has seen the quartz stone since it was found by Mr. Farley and he remembers seeing it on the bank of the river about 50 years ago, where it was no doubt left after one of the modernizations. He believes it could be almost as old as the original stone, because it is heavier than the stones used in the mill; and is made of several pieces rather than carved whole in a single piece. Mr. Braden believes the stone gradually becaime covered with dirt during the years until Mr. Farley found it. "According to Wayne Braden, the second stone, purchased in 1853, was stolen and later ended up in Brownsville Pioneer Park. [Ben Fisher, a Iongtime Brownsville resident, said that '. . . the stone was removed from the old Brownsville FIouring MIll In the summer of 1950 by Clarence Keith and Claude McKern at the time the mill was demolished. . .'" {Linn, p 218}] Joseph and George Smith were interviewed in the 1930s by Leslie Haskin. Their names were simplified as their father was 1847 pioneer William Messersmith and their grandfather was 1852 pioneer Andrew Messersmith. ". . . All the mills in those days ground with stones. Steel burrs were unheard of for many years. The pioneers always contended that stones made the corn meal 'sweeter' than any which could be made with steel burrs. When the stone burrs were allowed to run empty they would grind each other and the corn-meal mush would be gritty with sand. There was always a little grit in stone-ground meal. People jokingly said that it was good for your gizzard. . ." {Linn County, Oregon Pioneer Settlers: Oregon Territory Donation Land Claim Families to 1855, Vol 6, p 77-79} [Future references are shortened to DLC.]

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World Trade
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"Then too, wheat offered the greatest opportunity for a ready income if it could be ground into flour. Flour could be sold to the California mines. As J. J. Davis wrote in 1907, 'Once I saw at one time, one hundred and fifty pack mules Ieave Albany loaded to the guard with flour, bacon and butter. One mule was loaded with three, fifteen gallon kegs of whisky [, which made the mule groan. . .].' Abundant water power from the many streams provided an ideal situation for the development of grist and flour mills which in turn provided a market outlet for the ever-expanding wheat acreage. . ." {Linn, p 217} [John J. Davis, son of Truet Davis, wrote arrived in the area as a boy with his parents in December 1847. He wrote two 1907 articles called "Early Albany" for the Albany Democrat. In 1849, Linn County was the top wheat producing county in the Oregon Territory.]

". . . After 1857, when steamboats became numerous on the Willamette River, large quantities of flour were shipped from Linn County to Oriental countries. In 1880, the railroads commenced to carry flour to the eastern states. When the Panama canal was finished in 1915, flour began to move by steamship to European countries." {Linn, p 218}

The success of R. C. Finley's first mill was noted by an early settler, George Goodall. "The first settlers had gone to Oregon City for flour and later to Salem. After Finley's Mill was built, people came from as far away as the Umpqua Valley to get flour there. . . Currency was scarce in the settlement and wheat served to a large extent as a medium of exchange. . .

"In addition to producing wheat for home use, the farmers quickly found wheat growing to be a prime source of income. The California Gold Rush provided an instant and burgeoning market. The Willamette Valley of Oregon with its rich alluvial soils was the closest populated farming and wheat growing area. Waterpower from the streams and creeks flowing out of the Cascades added to the ideal situation for the development of grist and flour mills and the wheat acreage continued to expand. Long trains of pack mules carried flour and other supplies to the mines. . ." {"Milling on the Calapooia", p 6}

Hugh Dunlap was interviewed by Leslie L. Haskin on August 14, 1940 at the Pioneer Picnic in Brownsville. He was born on the Dunlap claim on Courtney Creek on May 11, 1858, but had left the area in 1877 and had not been back since 1899. His parents, John Alexander Dunlap and Jane Carson (Findley) Dunlap, had come to Oregon in 1847 with the Findley and McCaw families. Jane's niece, Margaret, was Mrs. Josiah Osborn; a sister, Agnes, was Mrs. John B. Courtney; and another sister, Betsey, was Mrs Elisha Griffith and a third sister, Rebecca or "Becky", was Mrs. Daniel Putman. Daniel's first wife was Isabella Findley, Hugh's mother's sister. So the Dunlaps wanted to settle near these relatives and others from the same wagon train. They passed the Whitman Mission while Josiah was working on the mill, wintered at Fort Vancouver and settled on their claim in the spring of 1848. In 1849, along with Alexander Kirk of Brownsville and John W. McCoy of Oakville, John A. Dunlap was elected as one of the three original Linn County Probate Judges, now called commissioners. That year John Dunlap was also elected as a member of Oregon's first Territorial Legisiature.

Hugh Dunlap commented, ". . . While my father was County Commissioner for Linn County, after the county was fully organized [in 1848], there was an attempt to re-divide the county, making the south line run along the foothills bounding the south side of the Calapooia Valley. R. C. Finley heard of this plan while he was at Albany on business. Immediately after he had eaten his supper in Albany, Finley hurried over to my father's home and told him what he had heard. Father, through his influence as a Commissioner, managed to have the plan defeated." {PS, Vol 1, p 108-110}

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Claim Jumping
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The R. C. Finley family ". . . crossed the plains to Oregon in 1846 with Jonathan and Elias Keeney, the Blakely's, Browns and Kirks. These families all settled at Brownsville, Oregon. But Mr. Blakely rode out on horseback, and having found a falls in the Calapooia River about seven or eight miles above Brownsville, persuaded R. C. Finley to build a flour mill there. Up to which time one went to Oregon City by ox-team for flour. {Linn County Historical Museum in Brownsville, Finley file}

Hugh Dunlap continued, "My family being closely related to the Courtneys, I have, naturally, heard the Courtney side of certain incidents which took place, such as neighborhood feuds. [Hugh's mother, Jane (Findley) Dunlap, was the sister of Agnes 'Nancy' Bolton (Richey) (Findley) Courtney. Nancy's father was 1845 pioneer John Richey. Her first marriage was to James Lindsey Findley and second marriage was to John B. Courtney, father of John R. and Isaac B. Courtney and six others. Jane was also the aunt of Margaret (Findley) Osborn, daughter of Alexander Findley and wife of Josiah Osborn.] One of these was the matter of ownership of a certain claim near Crawfordsville. This claim was first taken by a relative of the Courtney's [John R. Courtney]. After he staked his claim, this man went away to work and earn money, leaving his claim unimproved. [The Provisional Land Claim for John R. Courtney states that it is , "On Calapoigah River [north side] above the Santyam. Includes the falls of the Calapoiah. Personal occupancy, 15 Aug 1846." [Two spellings for Calapooia.] John B. Courtney and his son, Isaac, each took claims about two miles south of the Calapooia River settling on them in the spring of 1846. Just west of John B.'s claim was Elias Keeney. As Clerk of Session of the Associate Reformed Presbyterian Church at Union Point, south of Brownsville, Josiah Osborn noted the formation of the church in the church records for June 18, 1849. "In the spring of forty-six John B. Courtney emigrated to this neighbrhood." and ". . . during the summer, Isaac B. Courtney and Mary Jane Courtney came into the neighbrhood, which made five members of the church [counting Josiah and Margaret Osborn]."

An 1853 affidavit by Agnes 'Nancy' B. Courtney on file in the Roseburg land office told of her husband's death. She stated that, ". . . John B. Courtney was killed by the falling of a tree on the 12th day of September, 1847, while absent from home for provisions; and she further says that she has continued to reside upon and cultivated said claim continuously from the seventh day of July, 1847, to November, 1848, and from February, 1852, to the seventeenth day of January, 1853." In his July 20, 1924, "Old Stuff and New" article in the Albany Sunday Democrat, Everett Earle Stanard added some details. "Mr. Courtney's death occurred in a peculiar manner. While at Oregon City for provisions he went into the woods to assist in the falling of some timber. The circumstance was related to me by Mrs. Nancy Jacobs, a daughter of Josiah Osborn; She said that hot rocks [placed in bore holes] were used to fall the tree, and that when the time came for the men to run, Mr. Courtney became confused and ran in the in the wrong direction. As a consequence he was struck by the falling giant of the forest and instantly killed. This took place on the Rinearson Claim, near Oregon City."

Isaac B. Courtney and his wife Elizabeth Courtney moved to Umatilla City near the confluence of the Umatilla River with the Columbia. On April 9, 1866, they sold their three lots. John R. Courtney and his wife Caroline B. Courtney moved to Walla Walla County in the Washington Territory then to a farm south of Echo, which they sold on July 31, 1867. {Umatilla County Deed Records, Book A, p 342 & 489 and "History of Umatilla County" in Reminiscences of Oregon Pioneers, p 11}

The Provisional Land Claim for Josiah Osborn stated, "On Calapoigah River [south side] above Santyam, Beeler on SW; claim includes Falls of the Calapoigah River. Personal occupancy, 12 May 1847." Osborn went to Salem to build the Mission MilI. "The Osborn family had wintered with the Whitmans during the winter of 1845-46, and Whitman had a high opinion of Osborn as a mill-wright and mechanic. When Whitman was in the Wiillamette Valley in August, 1847 he called on Osborn at Salem and persuaded him to return to Waiilatpu that fall to build two mills which Whitman needed. Whitman agreed to pay him three hundred dollars a year, and Osborn went for a two-year period. . . {Marcus Whitman, M. D. by Clifford M. Drury, p 386} Marcus Whitman and the Osborn family traveled up the Columbia River in a Hudson's Bay batteau and landed at Fort Walla Walla, now Wallula. Josiah, a millwright, mechanic, carpenter and wagon maker, arrived with his family at the Whitman Mission on October 18. [They escaped the Whitman Incident six weeks later and returned to the Calapooia River.]

Hugh Dunlap stated, "Richard C. Finley, looking for a site to build a mill, decided that this claim was the only available site. There was a small waterfall there, and the possibilities for power were good. He, therefore, settled on the claim [on the north side of the river]. I believe that there was an agreement between Finley and the other early settlers, the Kirks, Browns and Blakelys, to back him in the posession. It Is a fact that the first claimant had not fulfilled the letter of the law; perhaps in a strict legal sense he had forfeited his claim, but in those days the letter of the Iaw was not too strictly enforced and a man who had to earn money before building on his claim was usually allowed to do so and hold his land uncontested. However, Finley jumped the claim and prepared to hold it. The first claimant returned and protested, but Finley held him off with an ax. The Browns, Blakelys, and others came to back Finley and the first owner withdrew. Finley built his mill, which was probably the first flour mill south of Oregon City. John Courtney was very angry about the whole affair and was going to kill Finley, but my father persuaded him to drop the matter. Father said, 'Finley is all right and he will build a mill here long before you could ever do it.' Father felt, as did the Browns and Blakeys, that a mill was badly needed in the settlement and that the man who would do it first had some rights to the power site. That old mill is now owned by John McKercher. The present building is not so old as it is sometimes said to be. Probably it was built about 1856 [1853]." {PS, Vol 1, p 110-111} [That mill collapsed in May 1948. Brownsville was named by Captain James Blakely in honor of his uncle, Hugh Leeper Brown. Isaac Courtney sold his original squatters rights to Captain Blakely and moved to his new claim where he built a sawmlll on Courtney Creek.]

Born in 1854, Andrew J. Kirk, son of William R. 'Riley' and his second wife Julia A. (Burden) Kirk and the grandson of Alexander and Sarah (Sweeten) Kirk, gave a lengthy interview. ". . . When the Kirk family came to Oregon [in 1846], they were accompanied by Mr. R. C. Finley (Dick Finley). He spent the winter with my grandfather in Polk County. Sometime soon after they reached Oregon, 'Dick' Finley and my father's sister, Polly Ann Kirk, were married. At that time, Dick Finley was a man of perhaps thirty years, while Polly Ann was but thirteen. On the night of her marriage she cried because she had to sleep with a strange man.

"Grandfather Kirk and Dick Finley came on to Brownsville in the spring of 1847. [Alexander Kirk's Donation Land Claim stated that they settled on their claim on October 15, 1846. Richard Chism Finley arrived in 1846, but his DLC claim stated that he settled on the claim on May 27, 1849.] . . . Grandfather took up land in what is now the town of Brownsville [which was called Kirk's Ferry], but Dick Finley, who was a miller, was encouraged by the early settlers to look out for a place where he might build a mill. The best spot found for a mill was on the Calapooia about one mile west of the present town of Crawfordsville. There was a small waterfall there, and a fine site for water power. This site, however, had already been taken up by another man, a relative of the Courtneys who settled on Courtney Creek in 1845. This first claimant had staked out his land but had made few or no improvements. Under the encouragement of the Browns, Blakelys and others, Dick Finley settled on this claim. Soon after that the first owner returned and tried to drive Finley off, but after some strong talk but without actual physical fighting, Finley was left in possession.

(Note. Although the common version of this claim jumping incident is favorable to the Finleys and their helpers, other versions are quite the contrary. Apparently, according to John McKercher, present owner of the mill, it was as rank an incident of claim jumping as could well have happened. Because the Browns, Blakelys, and Finleys wanted a mill, they were willing to go to any lengths. They agreed beforehand that they would back Finley up in his claim at any cost. The first owner found Finley at work starting his cabin. He ordered Finley off. Finley threatened him with an ax. The first claimant left to get reinforcements from his relatives, the Courtneys. Finley also sent word to the settlers at Brownsville who came fully armed, prepared to fight it out to the end. Soon two armed bands were gathered at the mill. The Courtney contingent, however, seeing that bloodshed was inevitable, and not wishing to sacrifice human life, finally withdrew. [-L. H.]) [According to Peter G. Boag, the claim was taken by John R. Courtney. Finley recorded the Provisional Land Claim in Oregon City on April 22, 1847, and returned. He chopped down a tree to cross the river just as John R. Courtney arrived. Courtney ordered Finley off his land, but that didn't work since Finley was still holding the ax. Both sides sought reinforcements. The Finley supporters were Hugh L. Brown, James Blakely, Alexander Kirk and possibly William Riley Kirk. On the Courtney side was John B. Courtney, John R. Courtney, John Dunlap, brother-in-law of Agnes Courtney, and possibly Isaac Courtney. Bloodshed was avoided when Courtney was assured that the mill was needed and that Finley could build one faster than Courtney. Alexander Kirk had purchased the claim of John's brother, Isaac Courtney, for one yoke of oxen to hold both sides of the Calapooia River and establish a toll ferry. {Environment and Experience, p 101-102}]

"In this controversy there were undoubtedly two sides, and legally the Finleys were in the right, but morally, perhaps, utterly wrong. It is true that the first owner had staked out a claim and gone away without making
improvements, thus forfeiting his claim. However, it was the custom, and a well-known and recognized custom, to
allow the first claimant a whole year to make actual settlement. In many cases, claims were staked out and held without settlement while the owner went back to the Mississippi Valley to bring this family on. In the meantime all other settlers carefully respected his claim. This was done by the Hackleman family, first settlers at Albany, and when the elder Hackleman [Abner] died on his eastern trip and his son [Abraham] came in his stead, no one questioned his right to the land which his father had staked out.

"The only real excuse for the Finley's action, and for the backing of his action by the other Brownsville settlers, was the fact that the settlers needed a mill, and needed it badly. This public need might be a partial excuse. Finley could give them a mill. The site was favorable, and Finley wanted it. The others wanted to see the mill built, and were determined that it should be. They came to Finley's aid against the Courtney clan with the intent to have their mill in the face of all odds and at the expense of life, if necessary.

"(Mr. John McKercher, present owner of the mill, told the writer the above facts which he learned from his father. McKercher's opinion was that the taking of the site was an outrage--an unmitigated steal. Mrs. Eliza Brandon, daughter of R. C. Finley has told the writer that for many years the Courtney tribe would have no dealings with the Finleys, but finally forgot the feud and were willing to become friendly. [-Leslie L. Haskin])

"Because the Courtney family soon left the region, almost all versions of this feud have been told by their enemies who remained and became very influential in the region. [-L. H.])

"Dick Finley, who married Aunt Polly Ann Kirk, was lame. His legs had been broken while working in the lead mines of southern Wisconsin. As he grew older, his crippled condition was complicated by rheumatism.

"When my father first settled at Brownsville, he had one yoke of oxen and practically no other resources. (His first home was made merely by building a rail pen underneath a wide-spreading white fir tree. Beneath this sheltering tree, they lived all of the first summer far into the beginning of winter. Such a shelter was common in those days. [-L. H.]) Besides using fir trees for houses, it was still more common to use them for barns. Up to very recent years an Oregon sheep barn, if visited, might often be found to be nothing but such a fence encircled tree. . .

"My father's first house after the fir tree shelter was a tiny shanty. Father got a froe and rived out boards to cover it. [Froe or frow is a cleaving tool with a handle at right angles to the blade used for splitting shingles from a block. Rive means to tear apart, split or cleave.] Later, of course, we had a roof frame house. The old barn on that place was built by my father about the year 1853. The heavy hand-hewn beams in that barn are still sound and in good condition. When they built barns in those days, they built them to last. Some of the great beams in barns that I have known were 12 x 12 inches. {PS, Vol 3, p 8-14}

Early in 1937 Leslie L. Haskin interviewed Eliza (Finley) Brandon. ". . . The other settlers encouraged father to establish a mill on the Capapooia. He selected a site at some falls or rapids a short distance below the present town of Crawfordsville. Another man, a relative of the Courtneys, had already claimed this site, but had done nothing whereby he might legally hold it. The Browns and Blakeleys encouraged my father to take this land, saying that the first claimant, having gone away without making any improvements, had no right to hold it; that if he did return they would aid my father in holding the land. After my father had built his cabin, the man (whose name was MacAlaster), did return. [This idea for the victim was possibly Rev. E. A. McAllister who later was a Universalist preacher at Diamond Hill.] Finding my father there, he made threatening advances against him. Father was cutting timber and had an ax in his hand. Presenting the ax as a weapon of defense, father insisted on his rights, and the man went away, never to return. This incident, however, incensed the Courtneys and for a long time they would have no dealings with the Finleys. {PS, Vol 1, p 46-47}

Contents


The Mills

Please Note: While the following remarks relate to the individual mills built along the Calapooia, they are a continuance of the general history related above. For general contextual information, additional information on the individuals contained in this section and other remarks, please refer to the Introduction and first section of the article above.